Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Muslin Bodice #1

Were you paying attention? Did you notice that we are now working with fabric and not paper? As I mentioned in a previous post, I needed about an inch to in the midriff band to match the upper bodice. The upper bodice and the midriff band are from two different pattern companies so that is the reason for the lack of match up. I cut out yet one more paper pattern. This time, I drew two sizes on the pattern pieces so I could make sure I had enough fabric to work with. As I was cutting the pattern pieces, I made sure that I had at least an inch seam allowance on all the important edges. I added extra allowance on the side, the shoulder, the neckline and the bust. I increased the midriff one inch on the top of the band but did not increase the bottom. I knew that it was hitting at Whitney's waist. I needed to widen the band. In the picture, the band doesn't look as wide as it's suppose to. I guess I better double check all my math. I did shorten the upper bodice so the band would sit up higher.

Before I could put the bodice together, I first needed to do some prep work. I marked the bodice with tracing paper. I traced the stitching lines and grain. Instead of putting the tracing paper in the middle, I did one side at a time. I put the
tracing paper on the bottom and used the tracing wheel to do
my marking. I then removed the pattern piece and carefully put all the pins back into the fabric. I turned the pieces over and took the tracing wheel and went over the markings. This method helps to eliminate the shifting of the fabric.

After the marking was completed, I was able to go to the sewing machine. I basted the stitching lines. I also decided to stay stitch the curved edges of the bodice. Whitney's shoulder to waist measurement is about 1.5 inches longer than Gigi's. (Yes, she's still employed even though she's causing dissension in the atelier). So the bodice looks a little big but we will see how the fit is tomorrow when Whitney comes over for the evening.

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